Of course the first "error" that will waste your time is the way they added the 1100 information to the 1000 manual. If you have a 1100, don't do anything until you check the revisions in chapter 14. You have to dig through the whole chapter to find the subheadings that relate it to the earlier chapters. A lot of folks have tried to set their 1100 carb float levels using the 1000 information!
I just rebuilt the carbs on my GL1000 and was mislead by errata in
Clymer manual. The manual illustration points to the rubber plug
over the idle jet. It points to the wrong hole! I should
known better, but had just finished working on a Suzuki DOES have the
jet under a rubber plug right where they're pointing!
More carb confusion here. The general agreement is that you
adjust the float level by bending the float tang in the middle of the
(like every other carb in the world). You might want to bend the
arms where the manual shows to get the floats flat to the bowl parting
Here's one that I found when I put in my Dyna. One coil lights
cylinders 1 and 2 (the front cylinders) and the other lights 3 and 4
If you wire it like they show, your bike shouldn't run. I believe it's the outside points that fire the 1-2 coil.
FORK SEALS - in the 1100 supplement section they state that disassembly of the 1980-82 forks should be left to the dealer because it requires special Honda tools and a hydraulic press. This is bogus, but easy to infer from the Honda shop manual. Actually, the seals can be pulled and the fork disassembled by removing the seal lock ring and the bottom socket screw and "thumping" the fork parts apart. Here's my how-to.
The Clymer manual say that the for oil quantity for the 80-81 models
is 220cc. The shop manual says 240cc.
STARTER REPLACEMENT - This one makes up for all the other
The Honda Shop Manual says you have to pull the entire engine to
Clymer shows how to do it (it's easy) in the frame.
Other errors? Let me know and I'll document them.
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